Shave of the Day 2015

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The new little piggy's still being broken in. She watched on this morning...hoping she's a quick learner
Is where the pucks of Col Conk come in handy, perfect to waste upon breaking in a brush and dissipating the new smell somewhat :)

Dale your kindness and thoughtful care are second to none! I'll keep your generous offer in mind ;)

Although I restored this straight from a rego sticker remover to a shaver (with a lot of help from Oz), so it has sentimental value - which the R41 lacks..
Obviously have to ask of him to return the act of kindness, via a few bottles of Ogallala bay rum, in order to alleviate him of the worry of running out of it :)
 
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Brush: Plisson L'Occitane Synthetic with rubber band
Pre-Shave: Occams Original pre-shave soap
Soap: Mike's Bay Rum
Razor: Above the Tie R1 Kronos
Blade: PolSilver SI (1)
Post-shave: Moroccan Organic Argan Oil

Today was one of those shaves - you know the stars are aligned, when you are blade buffing the neck area and it feels great. The ATT R1 likes sharper blades and I had almost forgotten this fact. It was actually one of those shaves, where I was a bit sad, that I don't have the H1 (most aggressive) base plate - so if anybody has one lying around and wants to get rid of it, I really would love to try it out.

The rubber band trick works on the Plisson, there is actually some feeling. I guess because the brush can't splay as much. The lather production took a bit longer than normal, and there was not such an abundance of it - but all well within my parameters of liking. And the lather was again perfect.

It feels way nicer like this, but I still prefer the feel of my natural hair brushes (all 3 hair types). So, I would like to have this knot, set 5-7mm lower in a decent (heavier and less slippery, but nothing fancy) handle - and I don't want to spend 100$+ on it (don't think I would like it that much). Any ideas???
 
It feels way nicer like this, but I still prefer the feel of my natural hair brushes (all 3 hair types). So, I would like to have this knot, set 5-7mm lower in a decent (heavier and less slippery, but nothing fancy) handle - and I don't want to spend 100$+ on it (don't think I would like it that much). Any ideas???

Well IF you wanted to get it done I wouldn't see it as that hard from a technical perspective, ASSUMING you don't mind essentially ruining the wooden handle to get the knot out. Seems folks already have a lot of way to do this so I'll assume you're able to get the knot + metal tin out.

From reading the other thread it sound like the big issue is that there's a lip on the metal knot holder that makes it very tricky to put into another handle? Thats the main issue right?

I'd wrap the knot with something protective like paper then apply some protective gaffer tape or similar over the top of that. You could then put the knot into a vice and remove the lip of the metal with a 'dremel' type tool or use a bench grinder and perhaps a pair of vice grips or similar to remove the lip. It'd be very soft steel so should come away easily enough. Just have to be careful not to heat it up too much or you could 'cut' a few hairs by them touching the hot metal.

It's one of those 'if you have access to the tools it's easy' things.

Then you just need the handle you're after and ideally if you have access to a drill press you'd use a vernier caliper to check the size of hole needed and drill, pop it in with some epoxy or silicon if unsure and you're done.

Sounds complicated but with the right gear it's a few hrs work at most, removing/cutting the lip off is the fiddliest part and I'd go very slow at that........just an idea but conceiveably you could use a pair of pliers and by gripping it directly down and applying maximum force you could crush the lip inwards and then repeat this all the way around - that could be safer and easier and also not overly dissimilar in reducing the total thickness of the knot bundle. Crimp it down properly in one bit and you should be able to go all around very easily...but thats assuming the steel is relatively maleable.

If you've not got access the tools or a mate who has them perhaps consider checking out your nearest 'mens shed' dunno if you could do there.
 
Well IF you wanted to get it done I wouldn't see it as that hard from a technical perspective, ASSUMING you don't mind essentially ruining the wooden handle to get the knot out. Seems folks already have a lot of way to do this so I'll assume you're able to get the knot + metal tin out.

From reading the other thread it sound like the big issue is that there's a lip on the metal knot holder that makes it very tricky to put into another handle? Thats the main issue right?

I'd wrap the knot with something protective like paper then apply some protective gaffer tape or similar over the top of that. You could then put the knot into a vice and remove the lip of the metal with a 'dremel' type tool or use a bench grinder and perhaps a pair of vice grips or similar to remove the lip. It'd be very soft steel so should come away easily enough. Just have to be careful not to heat it up too much or you could 'cut' a few hairs by them touching the hot metal.

It's one of those 'if you have access to the tools it's easy' things.

Then you just need the handle you're after and ideally if you have access to a drill press you'd use a vernier caliper to check the size of hole needed and drill, pop it in with some epoxy or silicon if unsure and you're done.

Sounds complicated but with the right gear it's a few hrs work at most, removing/cutting the lip off is the fiddliest part and I'd go very slow at that........just an idea but conceiveably you could use a pair of pliers and by gripping it directly down and applying maximum force you could crush the lip inwards and then repeat this all the way around - that could be safer and easier and also not overly dissimilar in reducing the total thickness of the knot bundle. Crimp it down properly in one bit and you should be able to go all around very easily...but thats assuming the steel is relatively maleable.

If you've not got access the tools or a mate who has them perhaps consider checking out your nearest 'mens shed' dunno if you could do there.

OK, half the words you use could be in Chinese :) :) :)

I really suck with tools and would need somebody to do it for me - and I would only trust somebody, who has some experience with brushes - and preferably has done this transplantation before. I guess this won't happen within my budget - so it is going to end up becoming my travel/hurry brush ;)
 
OK, half the words you use could be in Chinese :) :) :)

I really suck with tools and would need somebody to do it for me - and I would only trust somebody, who has some experience with brushes - and preferably has done this transplantation before. I guess this won't happen within my budget - so it is going to end up becoming my travel/hurry brush ;)

Oh well - and actually the pliers idea won't work the knot seems to be attached to the steel all the way around and whilst you might be able to wiggle the pliers in I'm not going to test on mine to find out. I strongly suspect the hassle+cost of a handle switch won't be worth the risk of stuff up nor the actual 'improvement' in usability.
 
Oh well - and actually the pliers idea won't work the knot seems to be attached to the steel all the way around and whilst you might be able to wiggle the pliers in I'm not going to test on mine to find out. I strongly suspect the hassle+cost of a handle switch won't be worth the risk of stuff up nor the actual 'improvement' in usability.
Exactly my thought - so the only possibility I see at the moment is conact Rudy Vey, buy a new Plisson brush from/through him and pay for the transplantation and his handle and the pay for shipping to OZ - easily will cost 100$+ and IMO not worth the trouble...

If I could get it done for 50AU$, I might think about it, but not going to happen, so...
 
Brush: Semogue 620
Soap/Cream: La Toja
Razor: Gillette OLD Big Fellow
Blade: Feather (2)
Post-shave: EVOO
After-shave: Myrsol Agua Balsamica

Maiden run with the 620. Premature I know as she's more breaking in to do, but she did quite well and gave me two good passes - then I reloaded for the third and final clean-up. I am already seeing why most call this the Prince of Face Lathers.

The OLD Big Fellow loaded with a Feather is stretching my friendship with my face. We are now a little too lose. I can feel the blade really scraping the epidermis. Got a clean shave with only a couple of nicks and not too much irritation but it still felt too close for comfort.

EVOO and Agua Balsamic...and Azzaro PH are a nice way to transition from shave to world!
P.S., also trying a new deodarant - Lucky Tiger 'Head to Tail' - for this week.
Has been damned good! Highly recommended and the scent works great with the above trifecta.
 
@Young Buck , mate, I've never used a straight - and my fear (and the fact I';m getting great DE shaves) may stop me from ever venturing there. But that looks like one very capable and enticing edge!
 
@Young Buck , mate, I've never used a straight - and my fear (and the fact I';m getting great DE shaves) may stop me from ever venturing there. But that looks like one very capable and enticing edge!

Sharp is an understatement. Never as close as a de, as with a de you can always get the angle just right. But a straight shave forces you to slow down and focus (and less on other things). That said anyone thinking about picking one up needs to be prepared for the learning curve, as a shavette with the pro blades redefines a feather touch.
 
Sharp is an understatement. Never as close as a de, as with a de you can always get the angle just right. But a straight shave forces you to slow down and focus (and less on other things). That said anyone thinking about picking one up needs to be prepared for the learning curve, as a shavette with the pro blades redefines a feather touch.
That's a Feather DX right? Lovely scales. Feather makes the best "shavettes" (disposable str8s).
 
Oh Feather is there anything you cannot do?

....Ok ignoring their budget lines of course.
 
Yeah it's a dx. The scales are teak. Prior to this I had a TI in horn (now with peach) and couldn't get into stropping but still wanted that ambiance of a traditional straight.
Yeah, I hear Feathers are the closest you'll get to a str8 without being one. The DX are less forgiving than the (slightly) lower prices Artist SS.
 
Thursday 12 March 2015

195675d1426166017-sun-march-08th-sat-march-14th-sotd-12032015.jpg


Joseph Rodgers & Sons, 7/8 Quarter Hollow, Barber's Notch

Joseph Rodgers is one of my favorite old Sheffield straight razor maker. The touch on the skin of this great razor is just wonderful, despite of its very old age, it is still capable of giving a superb shave. I also like Elberel P.160 Professional Vetiver aftershave, old style and, unfortunately, discontinued - just like the glorious Elberel P.160 shaving soap - it has a lovely fragrance of menthol and vetiver, leaving a smooth and velvety skin.​
  • Pre-Shave: Myrsol Emulsión
  • Soap: Weleda
  • Brush: Omega Badger 63167
  • Bowl: Gerby Bowl
  • Strop: Mastro Livi Loom Strop and Hand Palm
  • Razor: Joseph Rodgers & Sons, 7/8 Quarter Hollow, Barber's Notch
  • Post-Shave: Umbrian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • After Shave: Elberel P.160 Professional Vetiver
 
Thursday 12 March 2015

195675d1426166017-sun-march-08th-sat-march-14th-sotd-12032015.jpg


Joseph Rodgers & Sons, 7/8 Quarter Hollow, Barber's Notch

Joseph Rodgers is one of my favorite old Sheffield straight razor maker. The touch on the skin of this great razor is just wonderful, despite of its very old age, it is still capable of giving a superb shave. I also like Elberel P.160 Professional Vetiver aftershave, old style and, unfortunately, discontinued - just like the glorious Elberel P.160 shaving soap - it has a lovely fragrance of menthol and vetiver, leaving a smooth and velvety skin.​
  • Pre-Shave: Myrsol Emulsión
  • Soap: Weleda
  • Brush: Omega Badger 63167
  • Bowl: Gerby Bowl
  • Strop: Mastro Livi Loom Strop and Hand Palm
  • Razor: Joseph Rodgers & Sons, 7/8 Quarter Hollow, Barber's Notch
  • Post-Shave: Umbrian Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • After Shave: Elberel P.160 Professional Vetiver

...and how do you rate the Weleda cream mate? I've been familiar with their products for over 25 years - having had worked at their Aussie distributor in a previous life (in a galaxy far far away). Still use their moisturiser until this day....quality stuff!
 
Shave of the Lid is now ….

Razor - FaTip Grande (thanks to Nightguard)
Blade - Schick (6ish) (Thanks Borked)
Brush - Case
Soap - Barrister & Mann, Fougere Aromatique (thanks to Peach)


What an outstanding shave! The Fatip can't be disguised as anything other than an aggressive open comb. Huge blade exposure means you feel and hear your shave! Probably a bad move using an old blade, which went in the bin afterwards, but it's shaping up to be an enjoyable razor. The R41 is quieter and a little more efficient, a little heavier in the hand too.

The Barrister & Mann Fougere Aromatique is a clear winner! Long lasting scent, not overpowering, but very present. two hours after shaving there is still a faint aroma of this wonderful soap. It's much harder than the Latha that I'm familiar with, but just as smooth shaving. It's got a lot of body to the complex scent - I remember trying GFT wild fern A/S and it is a sweeter version of this..


This was a fairly well P&C member sponsored shave… a great tribute to the prevailing generosity here
 
...and how do you rate the Weleda cream mate? I've been familiar with their products for over 25 years - having had worked at their Aussie distributor in a previous life (in a galaxy far far away). Still use their moisturiser until this day....quality stuff!

Still the only shave cream in my den!
 
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