The Blobbie

Drubbing

110% Smiley-Free
Joined
Feb 8, 2011
Location
Perth, WA
Hello. I'm back crapping on about brushes again. Feel free to read some old posts if you're into something else.

So Pj said to me one day, 'I'm thinking of getting some knots in. You in?' I was. I sacrificed a Smoggie and it was returned as a Blobbie. You'll have to ask Pj.

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The Semogue I gave up for the handle was the 1460. It was in the Best bristle grade and I found it way too noodly for me. It was one of their cheapies so it didn't really matter.

Pj had a bugger of a job cleaning out the knot and getting it ready for a new knot, what with the hardness of the glue at the base. We both went for a TGN knot in Best. Size wise, I could only select what would fit in that handle. This is an 18mm knot @ 45mm loft once set in the handle, I believe.

It's not particularly dense, in fact not at all. It doesn't have a lot of backbone, but enough - it's not floppy. We were both disappointed in the feel of these initially too. Mine was like face lathering with select hairs rigged up to 10v battery. It was stingy. It also shed like an Amish barn-raising festival. Mine still loses at least 3-6 every shave, but only the fine ones, the wiry buggers appear not to be interested.

So this was the bad news early. The good news is, it's softened up noticeably - as in, a lot. Which is good, as I was as near to calling it unusable as I could get at the start. I can also live with the shedding. Why?

i) It was cheap. Pj works for shave sticks and costs. The knot was $20.
ii) It lathers like a frickin madman.

This thing seriously works a puck of soap and cranks out some mean lather. I'll go as far to say it's the only badger I have that will get stuck into Harris Arlington. The Simmo's just can't cut it. I hate to say it, but they can't. I'm not blaming the soap, cos boar will do the job too, my water probably doesn't help, nor does small wooden shave bowls, cos some brushes need a bit more room to move. But those small variables mean nothing when this thing goes to work. I put it down to the lack of density - that enables the hairs to move and agitate better.

A dense, fat badger will get soap off hard pucks if you get them just right for dampness, which isn't always easy to get right. I find for me the best lather is one that starts creaming up off the soap into the brush - not foam, bubbles or paste, but cream. The smaller Simmo's will do that easily on soft soaps, but not Tabac or Harris. What that means is, longer to load up enough product, make lather, get it slick, and have enough. I like to get right first time, every time.

I can see why it drives some obsessives to have a certain brushes for certain soaps. But the Blobbie is a do it aller. Wet, shake, load and it's full of Mr Whippy in no time, and it makes nice, wet slick lather, real quick.

Why can't all brushes do that? I've paid some top cash for nice brushes, but there's a few products they simply don't work as well with, and are plain finnicky. The Chubby being at the top of that list. Give it creams and you can't complain; it's a luxury lather machine, but buggered if I know how people get this thing working well to load soaps, it's just too frickin fat. Sure, with a bit of patience and leaving the others alone, I can make the Chubby work as it should. I know. It's my own fault for buying too many brushes. Shut up already.

The only thing I'd change about the Blobbie, apart from the shedding, is the grade of hair. TGN Best certainly isn't a patch on Simpson for feel. I think their Silvertip might be more comparable. They come in around $20 too.
 
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Interesting write up Drubs. I see a lot of posting about TGN reknotting over at the Yankee sites. The quality of the hair is something that I have always wondered about.
 
As you can see, Best might not be the best for most people. Pj's doesn't shed though, and it's the same knot. He had a very stumpy Finest I tried, that I called Ghost tips - you simply couldn't feel it and that was weird. It was like lathering with just soap. It might have benefited from being 10mm taller.

I think their knots are worth a try. I can't knot a handle myself though, no time, too many kids, but I can pay mates to do it.

Thanks again Pj.
 
I just pulled the trigger on a Frank Shaving in silvertip. Should make a nice handle for a similar project if it turns out to be junk. Such mixed review around the place. Seems like the quality is up and down perhaps.

My gut feel is you probably need to go high grade to get the tip softness and try to get enough backbone by setting the loft low enough. I had a cheap badger or two when I started out, bloody horrible things on the face. The $5 bristle brush from the chemist was superior.
 
The $5 bristle brush from the chemist was superior.

You could be Pj's newest best friend.

I couldn't get lower than 45 on my handle, which is fine, wouldn't want it any higher. You'll only know what the Frank will let you work with if and when you trash it.
 
Drubbs I actually have a silvertip grade A on the way from TGN to replace the knot on the boar you gave me. I don't know what it was but it was so damn floppy every time I used it. I think you broke it in really well lol.
 
Drubbs I actually have a silvertip grade A on the way from TGN to replace the knot on the boar you gave me. I don't know what it was but it was so damn floppy every time I used it. I think you broke it in really well lol.

I think that was the 830? I got a free replacement, and it's still pretty soft even though I don't soak it anymore.

It's a nice handle for a reknot though. Send us some pics.
 
That brush sounds like the Kent brush that RM liked and I also bought one of (mainly for the soap). Starts off stiff, sheds a lot, softens into a very usable brush.
 
That brush sounds like the Kent brush that RM liked and I also bought one of (mainly for the soap). Starts off stiff, sheds a lot, softens into a very usable brush.

Must admit I am on the lookout for another brush. I absolutely love the Omega travel brush I have. It is like a living beast - take it out of its holder - add some warm water and the thing blooms to 3 or 4 times its dry size. About the only problem I have with it is it can (my technique I know) retain a fair amount of water so the initial lather can be a little wet. If I get the water content correct it is terrific. Of course this makes me hesitant on buying a sight unseen brush (may not get as lucky second time around) - I do have my $2.00 Chinese "Silver badger" on its way, but I do have doubts about it.
 
Drubbs I actually have a silvertip grade A on the way from TGN to replace the knot on the boar you gave me. I don't know what it was but it was so damn floppy every time I used it. I think you broke it in really well lol.

What I found with drubbings brush is that the way the handle is constructed, with the knot embedded in a metal cup in turn set in to the handle, that there was in effect no room in the cup for a knot bigger than 16mm knot. The cup actually flairs out at the top and gives the impression that there's a 20mm knot which is what a handle that size should have. Basically this is way too small to support a 50mm loft and results in the flopping and noodling that drubbing and now you (it is a Semoque you've got isn't it?) notice.

I had to really sand away at the internal face of the cup to barely fit a TGN knot which at it's base was 17.5mm. When I discovered that the TGN knot itself wasn't very dense I was dreading the result but, although it's not exactly what we were expecting, thankfully it's turned out to be at least a very useful brush. The one I did is a small travel brush which had a boar knot in it originally.

The Blobbie is named after my other alter ego on a headphone site.

Let us know how you get on with your rebuild. I'm interested to see how you get on. I really like doing restores on brushes. It's easy to do, you don't need any power tools and just requires a bit of patience removing the knot and rebuilding the inside ready for a new knot. The only problem is that you're restricted to what is on offer from the couple of firms that produce knots you can use for restoring.
 
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Must admit I am on the lookout for another brush.

In badger I can recommend the Simpsons Berkeley. Small, but most badgers are too big to begin with IMO. Very easy to use, well made and a decent price for a good brush.

Omega seem to make pretty much the same size knot in different handles. They don't appear to do anything under 55mm, so that might not be any good if you've one of their travel brushes and find it large.

What I found with drubbings brush is that the way the handle is constructed, with the knot embedded in a metal cup in turn set in to the handle, that there was in effect no room in the cup for a knot bigger than 16mm knot.

I never realised that, that is a small knot. I always felt their bases were strangely hard, so you weren't feeling the whole knot, but a 'supported' one hardened with glue. So you can't remove the cup? Maybe the handle is unuseable that way.
 
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Interesting write up Drubs. I see a lot of posting about TGN reknotting over at the Yankee sites. The quality of the hair is something that I have always wondered about.

I've used their finest on previous rebuild and it looks and feels like pure two band silvertip. It's very soft with not much backbone to speak of in spite of the fact I sunk the 18mm knot to produce a loft of barely 40mm. It's a nice brush but in my view would be way too spineless at 50 or even 45mm. Badger hair grading is utterly nonsensicle.
 
Badger hair grading is utterly nonsensicle.

Yeah, the only thing you can rely on is grading as per each maker. If you've tried a couple, then you know what you're going to get. Simmo's Best is great hair - the fat brushes still end up on the pricey side because of the amount of it and because they're not made on a machine in China,

Depending on the brush density, it's equiv. in feel and performance to a Rooney silvertip, without the floppiness. Which are also pricey because they're 'Silvertips' and Rooneys. So yes, grading across makers is pointless.
 
...... So you can't remove the cup? Maybe the handle is unuseable that way.

I considered removing the cup to create more room and possibly fit a 20mm knot. It would have been useable but I think the way the handle is designed it wouldn't have looked right.
 
......Omega seem to make pretty much the same size knot in different handles. They don't appear to do anything under 55mm, so that might not be any good if you've one of their travel brushes and find it large.....

The Omega travel brush actually has a knot of 22mm and a loft of 50mm, so it's a medium sized brush to all intent and purpose. It's a traveller by virtue of the fact it folds back to create a neat lttle bundle you can stash away in a toiletetry bag without any danger of damaging the knot. It's a pure knot too. I like pure badger and if it wasn't for the scritch that it has it would without doubt be the most popular hair grade out there. It has all the lathering characteristics of any badger hair grade but still maintains a really good backbone which in my view is the main problem with higher grade badger hair. They try and compensate for this by producing denser knots but as you have discovered this might not be a good thing either.
 
Interesting reading. Thanks lads.

I will give the credit card a bit of a rest for a while now but I'm keen to give the wee scot a bash for something completely different and add a travel brush to the den, maybe for Xmas.

Anybody got any of the semogue brushes in Badger?
 
The Omega travel brush actually has a knot of 22mm and a loft of 50mm, so it's a medium sized brush to all intent and purpose. It's a traveller by virtue of the fact it folds back to create a neat lttle bundle you can stash away in a toiletetry bag without any danger of damaging the knot. It's a pure knot too. I like pure badger and if it wasn't for the scritch that it has it would without doubt be the most popular hair grade out there. It has all the lathering characteristics of any badger hair grade but still maintains a really good backbone which in my view is the main problem with higher grade badger hair. They try and compensate for this by producing denser knots but as you have discovered this might not be a good thing either.

All this talk of rebuilding, is all that is required is a brush of any description (where do you source the knot from?) and a certain level of skill (no doubt a certain high level of skill) and you can build a new brush for less than the cost of purchasing the equivalent. (Please pardon my ignorance if I am totally off track)

Glen
 
All this talk of rebuilding, is all that is required is a brush of any description (where do you source the knot from?) and a certain level of skill (no doubt a certain high level of skill) and you can build a new brush for less than the cost of purchasing the equivalent. (Please pardon my ignorance if I am totally off track)

Glen

There are a few places where you can get knots pre-set in a base of glue. There's The Golden Nib (TGN to all the restoration freaks) and there's another mob I've forgotten the name of. TGN has by far the biggest selection. Unfortunately nobody really stocks boar. It wouldn't take much to turn handles up but you really need a lathe to get nice results. It's nice to get hold of an old handle and restore it. So if you come across a handle somewhere that's got a rotten old knot in it it's not hard to do and relatively cheap. A nice grade of badger will set you back $20-$30 and all other material cost is negligible.
 
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