Revisiting an old enemy - Derby Extra

Monsta_AU

Monsta_AU

...can I interest you in some vintage blades?
Staff member
Forum Administrator
Grand Society
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Location
Guildford.nsw.au
Possibly the first blade you ever started with. What felt in your unsteady, inexperienced hand as a somewhat sharp yet also quite rough blade....

I hate these things. I really do, it was not until I stopped using these and went for something a bit more refined - in my case a pack of Gillette 'Dark' Platinums - did I get any sensation of getting the feedback I needed to improve my technique. And from there I was able to go ahead in leaps and bounds. It's also the reason why I now recommend that people start with the Personna Red/Platinum blades instead.

Anyway, I was changing blades in my Slim, throwing a Gillette 7OC Black into my used blade container. I reached into my Mensbiz box that I keep in my bathroom cupboard with all my 'In Use' packs of blades, picked one out and looked.

It was a plastic dispenser, with the familiar green printing on the blade wrapper. My heart sank, but I sucked it up and thought to myself "How bad can it be?"

So it was dutifully unwrapped, and dropped into the Slim. Leaving the razor set at it's customary '6' on the adjuster, I lathered up with Proraso for old time's sake and go to work. And I was pleasantly surprised.

The easiest way all of you will understand is to describe it as a Personna Red which has traded in some smoothness for a touch more sharpness. Still reasonably smooth, but noticeably sharper. Still felt reasonably comfortable to shave with, never felt like it was going to bite me, decent feedback against my skin.

Am I a convert? No. I still hate them, if only because I like to hate them.

Derby Extra. Don't shave with them, because Razormonsta likes to hate them. But they do shave okay, and if you want a sharper Personna, try these before heading to Crystals.
 
Ha you're such a snob.

I don't like the Derby's either.

I thought they were just junk.
 
5 shaves in and i hate them aswell... well maybe 5 DE shaves is not enough to make a accurate judgement but they feel like crap to my inexperienced hands. :p

Only other blade i have used is Topaz platinum not a very well rated blade but gave me a good shave today with no nicks or soreness after 3 passes.
 
Try them in a few months time and I'm sure that just like razormonsta you'll find that they'll be:

"Still reasonably smooth, but noticeably sharper. Still felt reasonably comfortable to shave with, never felt like it was going to bite me, decent feedback against my skin."

I'm surprised nobody I've heard of has attempted to do a blind test with different blades. Ideal subject material as you can't really see which blade has been loaded. I can get a good shave with any blade and I find the difference between DE blades, particularly once you know what you're doing, is minor at best. If it wasn't for the appalling name and availability of others I'd be happy with Dorcos. Most of it's in your head, which even a blade freak like Razormonsta is basically admitting to. Thankfully I shave primarily with SE razors with little or no choice of blades.
 
Pjotr said:
Try them in a few months time and I'm sure that just like razormonsta you'll find that they'll be:

"Still reasonably smooth, but noticeably sharper. Still felt reasonably comfortable to shave with, never felt like it was going to bite me, decent feedback against my skin."

I'm surprised nobody I've heard of has attempted to do a blind test with different blades. Ideal subject material as you can't really see which blade has been loaded. I can get a good shave with any blade and I find the difference between DE blades, particularly once you know what you're doing, is minor at best. If it wasn't for the appalling name and availability of others I'd be happy with Dorcos. Most of it's in your head, which even a blade freak like Razormonsta is basically admitting to. Thankfully I shave primarily with SE razors with little or no choice of blades.
Click to expand...

That would be a valid point except when I use them, I get left with some stubble after two passes, whereas with other blades I am clean.

Surely this can't simply be put down to ability and skill with your razor?

A lot of blades, sure I would agree there is a tiny bit of difference, but some blades are just junk.
 
Nah, Derby are ok, but in my experience too variable within a pack / between blades... my life is too short for that sort of horsing about.

Dorco - I had better shaves from an unsharpened teaspoon!

But still they're not the worst blade I've tried, that 'honour' goes to the Laser blade sold in the UK by the discount store Wilkinson. I hadn't realised that wood was supposed to be used as a blade before I tried those...
 
Pjotr said:
I'm surprised nobody I've heard of has attempted to do a blind test with different blades. Ideal subject material as you can't really see which blade has been loaded.
Click to expand...

Because no one with any common sense wants a bar of that audio gear blind AB bollox.

Yes, there's a lot of ones that are indiscernible, but the good ones stand out for a reason. Stick a blindfold on me and I may not be able to pick all the bad blades by name, but I'll know which ones are bad. with some, it takes a few shaves to find out. Black plats were great on day 1, but day 2 and 3 my face lit up. Go back to Astras and everything is fine. The Gillette greens were just plain shit. Uncoated and sharp, they left me with razor burn too after one shave.
 
Last edited:
JugV2 said:
.....Surely this can't simply be put down to ability and skill with your razor?.......
Click to expand...

Well, to a degree it can. You change the angle a bit and give it more grunt. If you're inexperienced there's a good chance you'll end up cutting yourself and/or getting a serious case of razor burn and your first reaction will be to blame it on the blade which is only partly true. Admittedly it's not something you particularly want to be bothered with if you can get blades that don't require you to do this. And yes, in my experience, I agree Dorcos or Derbys are not as easy to use as others but I wouldn't say they're junk. Alternatively you could use different blades in different more/less aggressive razors. I use one SE blade in three or four different razors before it gets junked after 7 shaves. I could actually push it even further to 10 (or more) but it just becomes too much work and the more pressure and contact time with the skin potentially has nasty consequences.
 
Drubbing said:
Because no one with any common sense wants a bar of that audio gear blind AB bollox.......
Click to expand...

To take the analogy even further if you replace good/bad headphones/speakers with good/bad blades and the good/bad source/DAC/amp with good/bad technique it's the exact same argument. Rubbish in is rubbish out.

Have you converted to the Head-Fi dark side?
 
No. I don't shave with cables.

While blades are subjective between people experiences, it's a tactile, physical thing. Feathers are the most expensive blades (cables) do they work better? No - for me they're unusable.

But yes, crap technique, with poor lather and bad blade = crap out. I'm glad you agree with me.
 
Hmmm...I am liking the Derby Extra a lot. I will likely jump back onto the astra sp after this blade is done but I don't have anything bad to say about the Derby. Smooth, sharp enough and has good longevity.
 
Drubbing said:
.........I'm glad you agree with me.
Click to expand...

Almost! Of the three determinants, bad technique determines the difference between a good and a bad shave . Assuming a good technique, the rest just makes it easier and more pleasurable. In my opinion and with loads of smileys attached. Ya miserable plonker. More smileys.
 
I think the biggest determinant in my experience with the Derby's was the fact it was in a different razor. I don't think the DE86 does much good with those particular blades, whereas the slim would be much more aggressive and I would get the blade feedback on my skin. It's when you cannot feel the blade, that's where the unconscious pressure application comes in and rips you to shreds. The Dorco ST-301's did the same to me - so smooth I couldn't feel it.

Look, I am also thinking my lather is probably better and definitely more consistent now. I think that would have a small impact in this too, don't get me wrong.
 
OK I am using the Merkur HD...I believe it is more aggressive than the DE86. I haven't used another DE yet so I'm not familiar with the different razor/blade interaction.
 
Without going into massive detail, certain blades perform differently in different razors.

Some of these variables are in the razor design itself, such as:
  • if it is open or closed comb
  • the design of the comb itself and how much lather it 'lets through' to the blade
  • the blade exposure: how much gap between the comb and the blade. More gap usually means more agressive.
  • the angle of the blade in the razor (plus the angle you hold it at).

Some of the blade-side variables would be
  • the sharpening angle of the blade (grind/hone) itself.

There are also lather and other variables. I would call these for 'preparation and technique' factors.

Of course, these can add and subtract from each other, presenting you with the final shave experience. Certain razor characteristics might magnify a good or bad blade characteristic.

For now, it is probably better that you not try and find these razor/blade combinations, rather look to perfect your lather and get a good, consistent product on your face. Then, you need to get the physical technique of shaving down to a near-art.

Then: start changing blades, and maybe try a few different creams and soaps.

Once you have done that, go grab a nice Vintage Adjustable Gillette, and load up some of your least-favourite blades. You might be in for a nice surprise.
 
When I first started using DE blades, Derby were great. Teamed up with a Merkur HD it was a match made in heaven. Once they brought out the vertical packaging, they just went downhill.
 
Just was pondering the Derby again...

This is a weird blade. During the actual shaving I find it is rougher feeling than just about any other blade I have used so far, especially on my neck. The Merkur is blunter and smoother, the Astra SP is sharper and smoother. Perversely though, in the after shave assessment they are actually the gentlest on my skin and I have the least amount of irritation, particularly on my neck. I really don't know how to explain this :confused:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top