Gold Dollar

borked

borked

Shave, collect B&M pokemon, vodka, sleep, repeat
Grand Society
Group Buy Associate
Da Menth Heads
2018 Charity Auction Winner
Joined
Oct 10, 2013
No experience. They get slammed ykw but as you say "for what you pay" you can't go to wrong. I believe Oz has come across some that won't sharpen, won't even hold an edge. I think he refuses to touch them now.

They are very cheap though, another is jico those are forged in Pakistan and apparently won't become collectors items.

A middle road option is a sight unseen from Larry at whipped dog. That's abouts $50 but will be sharp enough to split the atom
 
Yeah. They're ok according to what I read. Stallion rates them as a good entry point.

BUT... You have to hone them. And to start with by someone else (they would be ok to try on). To hone them will set you back at least $25 but I'm sure it'd cost more than that (especially if not Oz in Sydney). You also have to pay postage to and from your Honemeister. So a "cheap" razor will still cost $50...

WD sight unseen is one option, or a Dovo from TSS (going out he door) or from eBay seller "rspe7027" who sells shave-ready vintage str8's.
 
So better off sticking to the below gift to practice upon ??
Smith_Wesson_Straight_Razor_w_Brown_Wood_Handle_Small__39697.1410161426.800.800.jpg
 
oz might surprise you with the banana

If your wanting to learn to hone, the muscle memory, muck around etc etc sure it's a great option. I have read people getting a good shave out of them. Maybe once. Once you have learnt, quickly discard that razor in the neighbours bin on bin night and never make mention of it again.

You wouldn't need to get it honed if the purpose of buying it is to learn.

Q - can I pay $3 and learn to hone
A - yes

Q - would it save your S&W from a beating
A - probably

Bottom line. Yes learn to hone with one but whatever you do don't get too serious about shaving with it


Edit - stropping is easy you don't really need a practise razor for that, and if you are going to pay $500 for stones a better razor would match that investment.

Until then, be lazy like me and send it to oz once or twice a year for ~$50 inc postage
 
Nonick said:
Until then, be lazy like me and send it to oz once or twice a year for ~$50 inc postage
Click to expand...
$50 a year?! I'd be lucky if I used $10 of blades per year!
 
This is true egg, but stones are more expensive again :-( I think I'm still a little in front of my shick quattro. Just. But a whole lot more enjoyable :)
 
Hmmm thats what I've heard about the GD's - great for learning how to hone but thats really about it. I'd imagine given they'd use a quite entry level/low grade steel for their blades that even if you did get it to a shave ready finish you'd lose it significantly faster (and require a rehone) than the vast majority of vintage razors etc.

The honing setup costs etc are whats kept me away from having a straight in my arsenal as a change of pace. I've already got quite a bit of decent sharpening gear for my knives but one'd either have to buy several hundred dollars more or do the annual hone thingo. Hard to justify from a cost perspective.

A shavette was meant to be my pseudo-straight experience but apparently they're a poor indicator of straight as they're far more vicious/unforgiving - which is nice to know as I find mine a real handful and often put it away after only having done 1/2 or so of my shave.
 
I like the idea of straights, but it was the sharpening factor (or cost of) that prompted me to pif my straight to GT, and I think it has sat unloved at his place while he considers the same.

Just a little to costly to be practical (says they who spend silly amounts on everything else shaving related!)
 
I have used GD's. I got about 5 to practice on. 200 or 300 series. I ground the heal and toe and re scaled. They honed better than some of my dovo (stainless) and TI's. Managed to get a really good buttery shave out of one.

If you go straights and want to learn to hone then go with some of these. Learn to hone with or without tape and choose which you like more. Learn what grits to finish on for your face etc.

If your going to learn then no better way than with a GD. You don't want to take a 500 buck TI to a hone without knowing how to get a GD's to your liking. 200 series or 300 series work well.
 
Hi guys, I used to think the same about low quality steel on those GD but I've changed my mind after some experimenting with them and getting fantastic results. As a matter of fact I hone them without a problem and I did a quick video on honing one up just for fun. Since then I've contacted GDL (the manufacturer) to pick their brains out and they told me that from the 66s to the 208s are made from alloy tool steel which is very hard.

 
Mark said:
Hi guys, I used to think the same about low quality steel on those GD but I've changed my mind after some experimenting with them and getting fantastic results. As a matter of fact I hone them without a problem and I did a quick video on honing one up just for fun. Since then I've contacted GDL (the manufacturer) to pick their brains out and they told me that from the 66s to the 208s are made from alloy tool steel which is very hard.

Click to expand...

Jeez mate I didn't realise you we're the Wet Shave Advocate. Welcome aboard....I'm in awe of your honing skills mate...and that's coming from someone whose never used a straight (and is too scared shitless to) but who certainly appreciates the aesthetic!
 
Those GD's look beautiful. @Mark Are you still selling them?
 
stillshunter said:
Jeez mate I didn't realise you we're the Wet Shave Advocate. Welcome aboard....I'm in awe of your honing skills mate...and that's coming from someone whose never used a straight (and is too scared shitless to) but who certainly appreciates the aesthetic!
Click to expand...
Thanks @stillshunter Hopefully you will give it a go at some stage, no pressure, if a dummy like me can do I'm sure you won't have any problems :)

filobiblic said:
Those GD's look beautiful. @Mark Are you still selling them?
Click to expand...
I sure am @filobiblic.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Do the 208's require the same work on the shoulders as the 66 to be able to sit on the hone properly?
 
kjparker said:
Do the 208's require the same work on the shoulders as the 66 to be able to sit on the hone properly?
Click to expand...
All the GDs from 66-300 have the same blade but different scales and do require the low grits (preferable below 1k) to thin down the shoulders, mainly towards the rear of the blade, the face side is fine 90% of the time but once you get them right on the lower grits and a nice even bevel they take a pretty good edge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top