Aggressive/Mild Razors?

Hocky27

Hocky27

Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2015
Location
NSW
What makes a razor mild or aggressive? I figure it's got something to do with the blade & how much it sticks out.

What are the pros & cons of each style? Does either really make a difference?

I hear it in a lot of videos but don't ever really get it.
 
Blade gap makes it mild or aggressive. More blade, more aggressive. Open combs will usually be more aggressive than safety bar razors. Adjustables offer some extremes between the two, but it's still relative. A Gillette superspeed has nine settings but is weak as piss compared to a Merkur Progress or Futur.

It's a matter of knowing the different brands and their characteristics to know which are mild and which aren't. Whether you prefer one of the other comes down to what works for you. Sometimes you can't do anything but a bit of trial and error. I've tried many and settled on a Merkur 23C, which I find mild but very efficient and will let me use Feather blades easily. In all my other razors, they flayed my skin.
 
As Drubs said above...
It comes down to preference mostly, but all require a deft touch with good technique. It's often fun to try a few different styles of razors to see what you enjoy most.
 
Sorry to be a bit of a dunce but if the blade is more exposed does that mean you are likely to get a closer shave ? Could you therefore simply get away with a WTG pass and get a super closer shave ?
 
Hocky27 said:
Sorry to be a bit of a dunce but if the blade is more exposed does that mean you are likely to get a closer shave ? Could you therefore simply get away with a WTG pass and get a super closer shave ?
Click to expand...
Not necessarily "closer", but yes - more whiskers will be removed each pass.

Usually, you would do fewer passes with a razor with a larger blade gap (more aggressive). But not necessarily so. A very light touch and getting the angle right means you control the razor and so could go either a single pass or several passes. So if you're in a rush, you could use an "aggressive" razor for a single pass if you wanted...

(Keep in mind "closer" isn't usually better either...)

An adjustable razor means you could have a larger blade gap for the first pass, then you change to a lower setting (smaller blade gap) for subsequent passes. It's up to you and your style of shaving.
 
There are lots of different factors to consider. It's not just blade gap there's also blade exposure. Just take a look at the R41 to see the extremes of gap, exposure and comb. Well actually that's almost a complete lack of a comb. Another factor is the maneuverability (i.e. the ease with which you can adjust the angle) of the head which with TTOs but in particular with adjustables isn't great in my opinion. Weight is another factor. And on it goes. I prefer light weight three pieces. I say that in plural but after trying all the mainstream razor configurations I only use one bakelite three piece. And yes I take a lot of flak because of it. There's a lot of pent up frustration and testosterone floating around with shavers, they only feel comfortable with something hard and metallic-like in their hand.

I'd suggest maybe asking around if you can borrow a few different razors. There are plenty here who haves stacks of them they don't really use that much.
 
I repeat -

It is NOT the razor,
It is NOT the blade,
It is the razor AND the blade that need to be assessed as a unit.​

So while you might have a razor with a large blade gap (see below) and considered aggressive sometimes you will get better (DSDF as to what better means) results with a different blade.

For many the generally considered mild Tech pairs well with a Feather blade for a smooth, comfortable result. I get a great result with a Feather in razors commonly considered aggressive - probably better than in milder razors. Maybe it affects my technique I don't know. A 'gentler' razor in an aggressive razor may well provide a rubbish result.

Blade gap is also a fairly rudimentary measure of 'aggression'. The head geometry, how the blade is 'presented', blade exposure and blade curvature are all factors. Theoretically most can be compensated for by varying your technique and it commonly takes me a couple of shaves to adjust to a different razor/blade combo (but maybe I'm a slow learner).

The weight and balance (which impacts the pivot point) of a razor also come into play. @Pjotr loves his lightweight bakelite razors, others prefer a heavier one. Some prefer long handles, some shorter. Handle diameter also affects the shave.

Apart from the extremes we are really talking about fairly marginal changes which largely come down to preferences. Stick with a mainstream razor, try a few different blades once you have mastered one. When you can tell the differences around blades on one razor add some different razors into the mix - if you want to. There is no compulsion to try everything.

EDIT: Just saw post above - yes, loaners are possible around here. Try and see!
 
Hocky27 said:
Sorry to be a bit of a dunce but if the blade is more exposed does that mean you are likely to get a closer shave ? Could you therefore simply get away with a WTG pass and get a super closer shave ?
Click to expand...

Not neccessarily. More aggressive may irritate your skin. Some blades perform differently in different razors. As a newb, few of these things will be noticeable or an advantage until you can consistently lock in the right blade angle to cut, and avoid scraping. To begin with, many blades will feel about the same.

A single WTG pass with a sharp blade and aggressive razor is never going to match the closeness of shave you'd get with a mild razor and blade, and second XTG pass.
 
Thanks for all the posts guys. Seems that it all really comes down to your technique and preference. I guess I'll stick with what I've got and learn to perfect that before looking around :)
 
Stick with what you have til you're comfortable. Then try some other blades. Then see if your current razor is still doing what you like.
 
Some very wise words around here.

If I may add: try to get 5-10 consistent good shaves in a row from a generally well accepted razor, before you change it. Once you do, try to get a similar result from the next razor. Once you are able to get consistent good shaves from a razor, you can read comparisons of your razor to others. You know what you like and don't like about your razor and that way you can slowly work your way towards gear you really like.

AND: try not to put yourself in a drawer (mild, aggressive, 3 piece, TTO, modern, vintage, etc.) just because you like/don't like the idea. Try to accept what works well for you and be open minded - even if it is not so cool, the idea doesn't sit well or the price seems wrong...
 
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