Straights explained

eggbert

eggbert

is full of Vision Collision
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Da Menth Heads
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Jan 25, 2012
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Now that we have a few straight men amongst us...

Can someone tell me what the difference is between all the different shapes, sizes etc in straight razors?

I see many different sizes of blade, from around 1/2 inch up to and over 1 inch, why?

What are the reasons for hollow, wedge and concave grind (shapes?)

Finally what bearing does the toe of the razor have on shaving styles?

Im not planning on buying anything, but it's a few things I've wondered about when looking through eBay pages. Do any of these attributes change the shaving style and are any particular setups better for a Virgin straight razor user than others?
 
Razor size: 5/8 or 6/8 is common. The bigger, the more expensive generally. Some angles may prove harder to master with a bigger blade to manoeuvre around.

Shape: a full wedge will be heavy to shave with and very quiet. It's more work to hone as there's more material to remove, a higher price to hone a wedge is common. A full hollow ground will be noisier to use, lighter in the hand easier to hone.

The rounded toe is very forgiving. The trailing edge itself isn't sharpened. The square toe I don't think I'd be game to use. Some people say it's handy for some spots but unless your trimming nose hairs I can't see it. You'd have to be very very mindful what the trailing end was doing.

So for new people I'd recommend a regular 5/8 full hollow round toe razor.

If anyone is really interested

Straightrazorplace (SRP) has a vast wiki on everything straight related. It's very informative. Even the beginners FAQ is good for mild curiosity.
 
Nonick said:
If anyone is really interested

Straightrazorplace (SRP) has a vast wiki on everything straight related. It's very informative. Even the beginners FAQ is good for mild curiosity.
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Thanks for the rest of the info nick, but I find you lot scary enough, let alone foreign places with shaving weirdos.
 
My point exactly!
 
My Wester Brothers is a square toed beast, and it nicks me near the ears almost every time. Many pinstripes down the sides of my face.

Once I re-scale the Solingen one, then at least I will have the option of rounded toe.

Sizing has always confounded me too. The Wester Brothers that I use now is 5/8 I think. The Solingen is 6/8. To my mind, smaller definitely seems better under the nose.
 
Square points are fun, so when you nick yourself you can share the photos with your mates and have a laugh. Fun is what it's all about :)
Nah, they're not as intimidating as they look, go on, show us your scars!!
 
eggbert said:
Can someone tell me what the difference is between all the different shapes, sizes etc in straight razors?
Click to expand...

The differences cater for peoples needs and preferences.
eggbert said:
I see many different sizes of blade, from around 1/2 inch up to and over 1 inch, why?
Click to expand...

The 1/2 razors are mustache razors. The 5/8 and 6/8 are normal razors for everyday use by ordinary folk. The bigger ones are for people with tough beards or big hands.
eggbert said:
What are the reasons for hollow, wedge and concave grind (shapes?)
Click to expand...

The various grinds give different qualities of shave. The wedge has little or no grind. The hollows start with a quarter grind followed by half grind, half, full and extra hollow. Each step up results in a thinner blade. In use the my rule of thumb says that the thicker grinds provide a smoother shave and the thinner ones provide a keener edge.

eggbert said:
Finally what bearing does the toe of the razor have on shaving styles?
Click to expand...

The shape of the toe effects how close you can get your ears and nose. The round point gives you more room for error before causing damage, the square point and the Spanish point get you closer to ears and nose. In use they all work much same with the round point being the most suitable for beginners and the French point a close second.

These answers are just my humble opinion based on my experience and observations and I must admit that I have never used a Spanish point razor yet.
 
bald as said:
I recently acquired this one. I believe it is a Spanish point and the razor is a Bengall. I haven't even managed a full cut throat shave and I’m already accumulating :) !!


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Lovely looking blade. [emoji106]
 
Trisbert said:
That is indeed a Spanish point. Congratulations it's a nice looking razor. I'm not sure what you mean by "already accumulating it"
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Not "it" :) "!!" - in other words I'm adding to a collection of razors even though I'm yet to really get a secure handle on cut throat shaving.
 
For anyone that's interested, I've have a 'Razor Ruler' to help with sizing cut-throats.
I can't take credit for it - I got it on another forum, but why not share....hehehe
It seems that I can't attach it here so, if you want it, just PM me and I'll send it to you.
 
bald as said:
I recently acquired this one. I believe it is a Spanish point and the razor is a Bengall. I haven't even managed a full cut throat shave and I’m already accumulating :) !!
Click to expand...
From the symmetry of that point it almost looks like it has been reground. Not saying that i've seen every shape possible, but the spanish points i've seen elsewhere aren't so symmetrical.

What has been said about the wedge is true, less of a 'foily' type noise, more of a whisper. Most wedges have a hint of hollow just to clear the stones when honing.
 
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