Modification - Full-Size SR to Shorty

[rbscebu]

@sd_baker posted how he wished that he had a shorty SR. I already have one (just one), a T.R. Cadman 6/8 Bengall, and I enjoy shaving with it so much that I use it most Sundays. This put it into my head that I should have another SR shorty. I have a few spare Taiwanese SRs so decided to modify one into a shorty.

I start off with a Titan ACRM-2 T.H.60 half hollow 6/8 with an edge length of almost 70mm. I fancy a French point on this shorty to be and I will probably grind in a thumb recess into the shank (removing the jimps). Here is what I am looking at:

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This will give me an edge length of a little over 50mm.

@Gargravarr recently provided me with some flame figured European maple that looks lovely when polished with beeswax.

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More on this modification will follow in this thread. Any questions, just ask.

 

[sd_baker]

Are you going to shape it using.a belt grinder? What are details of the device / belts?

 

[rbscebu]

Are you going to shape it using.a belt grinder? What are details of the device / belts?

For the heel area removal I will be using a Dremel with flexible extension turning a small diameter grinding wheel. This grinding will be done underwater.

For the point end I will first cut off a lot of the excess and then finish up using the same gear as I will use on the heel section. Once that is done, the point will be tidied up on the sides of whetstones, probably 1k, 3k and 8k.

For my Dremel, I have a self-designed and made variable speed control that gets its rpm down to much lower than the nominal 10k rpm minimum. The cutting and grinding is done underwater to ensure that the steel's temperature never gets above 200°C.

 

[rbscebu]

This afternoon I got round to starting on this blade. I cut off the excess at the blade's point and ground the new French point. The edge length is now 56mm (previously 69mm).

Next was to remove the Titan face painting from the blade. I thought that this would come off easily with acetone, like a Gold Dollar. Nothing is ever easy when you think it will be. Titan must use some sort of acid type paint as it slightly etches into the steel. The only way to remove it was by sanding it out. That took some time and elbow grease. Then I had to do the same on the reverse side so that both sides looked reasonably similar.

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Next is to grind the underside of the shank to remove the jimps, grind out the thumb notch and re-profile the heel area, further shortening the edge length. Maybe tomorrow.

 

[rbscebu]

The blade is finished, all except for a honing. The edge length is now 52mm. That is 17mm shorter from original.

I am not sure about the shape of my thumb notch. My "standard" razor hold is with just my index finger on top of the shank, my thumb under next to the scales and my middle finger on the tail. Once shaving, I will be able to tell if this thumb-notch shape works for me.

Next step will be making the scales and putting it all together, probably next week.

 

[rbscebu]

Yesterday I made the scales and wedge.I also filled the oversized pivot-pin hole in the shank with epoxyweld and re-drilled the hole at Ø1.6mm.

For scales, I chose European maple timber with a lovely flame figure (courtesy of @Gargravarr) and wedge of 60/40 lead/tin.

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With that done. it was only a matter of putting it all together using brass pins and collars.

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[rbscebu]

This morning I gave the blade a final polish with Autosol and honed it up to shave-ready, finishing on a diamond pasted balsa strop progression. The scales were given eight applications of beeswax with a polish in-between each application. All is looking good.

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It wasn't easy getting the lighting right to show the flame figure in the timber scales. Here is the best that I have been able to do - so far.

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European maple with flame figure is used in the manufacture of better violins. It is a hardwood with hard timber that can be worked well. For SR scales, it can be a little light in density. For that reason, I made the scales 3mm thick rather than my normal 2.5mm and paid particular attention to the lead/tin wedge. The finished result ended up balancing at about 11mm from the pivot pin away from the blade. This was just within my preferred balance point location.

First shave with this little beauty will have to wait until Saturday as the rest of this week's shaving is fully booked. Then I can compare it against my only other shorty, a post-1924 T.R. Cadman "Bengall" 6/8.

 

[Mouette]

Excellent work Rbscebu!

 

[rbscebu]

Here is an comparison between an original Titan ACRM-2 T.H.60 and the same as modified in this thread.

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Edge length has been reduced from 69mm (original) to 52mm (shorty). Overall razor mass has been reduced from 65g to 43g.

 

[LesC]

Here is an comparison between an original Titan ACRM-2 T.H.60 and the same as modified in this thread.

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Edge length has been reduced from 69mm (original) to 52mm (shorty). Overall razor mass has been reduced from 65g to 43g.

Another fine example of @rbscebu workmanship and skill!!
Now with this "project'' nearly complete, is it closer to the Titan to Kamisori to commence?
I'd even supply the Titan

 

[rbscebu]

Another fine example of @rbscebu workmanship and skill!!
Now with this "project'' nearly complete, is it closer to the Titan to Kamisori to commence?
I'd even supply the Titan

The blade profile is close to a kamisori but it has a symmetrical grind. One day I might even try modifying a GD66 into a fixed handle kamisori (with symmetrical grind). First I will need to teach myself how to weld .

The only power tool that I have for SR restoration, repair and modification is a Demel. I only use that for heavy grinding (underwater). Everything else is done by hand.

The modification in this thread took me about 7 hours in total to complete. The hardest and most time-consuming part was removing the Titan logo from the face. That took a couple of hours.

I would happily perform this modification for someone else but not for free. They would probably be better off getting someone like @Substance to do it. I believe that he has the tools to greatly reduce the time involved.

 

[Gargravarr]

Nice work with those scales @rbscebu, they turned out beautifully. It is possible to weld more steel on to that tang, but somewhat tricky avoiding loss of temper in the blade. Another, perhaps more avant-garde approach might be to form up a handle out of resin around it. @TroyTools would probably be the best person to advise on that.

 

[rbscebu]

The missing photo from post #6

 

[Garry357]

This morning I gave the blade a final polish with Autosol and honed it up to shave-ready, finishing on a diamond pasted balsa strop progression. The scales were given eight applications of beeswax with a polish in-between each application. All is looking good.

​

It wasn't easy getting the lighting right to show the flame figure in the timber scales. Here is the best that I have been able to do - so far.

​

European maple with flame figure is used in the manufacture of better violins. It is a hardwood with hard timber that can be worked well. For SR scales, it can be a little light in density. For that reason, I made the scales 3mm thick rather than my normal 2.5mm and paid particular attention to the lead/tin wedge. The finished result ended up balancing at about 11mm from the pivot pin away from the blade. This was just within my preferred balance point location.

First shave with this little beauty will have to wait until Saturday as the rest of this week's shaving is fully booked. Then I can compare it against my only other shorty, a post-1924 T.R. Cadman "Bengall" 6/8.

@rbscebu you are an true craftsman, an incredible individual shorty.
well done.

 

[Substance]

The blade profile is close to a kamisori but it has a symmetrical grind. One day I might even try modifying a GD66 into a fixed handle kamisori (with symmetrical grind). First I will need to teach myself how to weld .

The only power tool that I have for SR restoration, repair and modification is a Demel. I only use that for heavy grinding (underwater). Everything else is done by hand.

The modification in this thread took me about 7 hours in total to complete. The hardest and most time-consuming part was removing the Titan logo from the face. That took a couple of hours.

I would happily perform this modification for someone else but not for free. They would probably be better off getting someone like @Substance to do it. I believe that he has the tools to greatly reduce the time involved.

You could use a angle grinder with a flap disc, or get some small 1 or 2 inch sanding discs that fit into the Dremel, but the 2x72” grinder is a lot quicker

 

[rbscebu]

@rbscebu you are an true craftsman, an incredible individual shorty.
well done.

I started off building timber racing sailing skiffs in my teens. Worked and studied my way up to designing ocean-going commercial ships.

 

[rbscebu]

You could use a angle grinder with a flap disc, or get some small 1 or 2 inch sanding discs that fit into the Dremel, but the 2x72” grinder is a lot quicker

I have spent most of my life travelling between different countries (18 so far). I have learnt to keep my material possessions to a minimum. It's a hard habit to break.

 

[Gargravarr]

I have spent most of my life travelling between different countries (18 so far). I have learnt to keep my material possessions to a minimum. It's a hard habit to break.

Wise words. I could easily do the same, except for the burden ROFLMAO: ) of a shedful of tools. But one tool I have found surprisingly versatile is the Whizzy Wheel, an inexpensive drill attachment made for removing decals from vehicles without destroying the paintwork. I wonder if it would help with the removal of those unwanted stamps from your blades...

 

[rbscebu]

Wise words. I could easily do the same, except for the burden ROFLMAO: ) of a shedful of tools. But one tool I have found surprisingly versatile is the Whizzy Wheel, an inexpensive drill attachment made for removing decals from vehicles without destroying the paintwork. I wonder if it would help with the removal of those unwanted stamps from your blades...

Also available on eBay AU for under AU$25 including shipping. Unfortunately I doubt that it would work at removing etched in paint on steel.

 

[rbscebu]

Nice work with those scales @rbscebu, they turned out beautifully. It is possible to weld more steel on to that tang, but somewhat tricky avoiding loss of temper in the blade. Another, perhaps more avant-garde approach might be to form up a handle out of resin around it. @TroyTools would probably be the best person to advise on that.

I am taking that into consideration, hence the reason I am starting on a GD66 straight razor.